“I am looking for a man in finance. Trust fund, 6’5, blue eyes.” The lyrics to “Man in Finance,” the catchy hit about bankers that aired earlier this year, might as well have included: “Wearing a vest.”
Also known as the “finance bro vest” or “city boy gilet,” the sleeveless layer is in the spotlight thanks to the return of this month industry on our television screens.
In the third season of the Espresso show about young bankers making it through the corporate world, Westen is almost a character in himself. Some feature the logo of the fictional investment bank Pierpoint and are worn by employees over shirts and ties, in the boardroom and on the trading floor.
“The vest as part of the show has a broader reach,” said costume designer Laura Smith, “[It] does a lot of work to show how people belong to the world of the show and how they approach their identity.”
It’s a look we’ve seen before from Tom Wambsgans, full of meaning – and ready to tear Consequence. As Roman Roy’s character notes, “It’s so bloated. What is it filled with? Your hopes and dreams?”
But for everyone industryIn the series’ larger-than-life depictions of banking, the vest’s ubiquity has its roots in reality. At Hackett, “popularity has been steadily increasing, with sales up about 10% year-over-year,” said Chief Product Officer Gianni Colarossi.
Marylebone tailor William Crabtree & Sons has seen sales of the Grasmere waistcoat rise 20% year-on-year since opening its brick-and-mortar store four years ago. According to business owner James Priestley, it is “difficult to say whether the increase in sales is directly attributable to the trade fair.” industry “But there seems to be a general growth in sales of our vest.” Charles Tyrwhitt reported an increase in vest-related sales earlier this year and predicted the company would grow by 20% next year.
Along with the quarter-zip sweater, the vest has become synonymous with business attire, perhaps particularly banker attire. “It’s such a specific piece of clothing that people really recognize and associate with this banker bro industry,” said style and culture journalist and editor TJ Sidhu. Sometimes padded, sometimes made of wool, sometimes made of microfleece – those from the Patagonia brand are particularly popular – they are a unique piece of clothing and therefore useful as a symbol that you can hold on to; more visually appealing than a suit or shirt.
“Now it almost represents the banking style and is something of a parody,” says a banking graduate in London who wished to remain anonymous. In a viral TikTok video from clothing brand Reiss that has more than 3 million views, a flash mob posing as finance bros dance to Man in Finance, each dressed in identical vests.
But for those working in the industry, the graduate said: “We are not part of the parody. This is what we wore before this trend started and we will continue to wear it after.”
The main appeal for him is that it is practical, especially on hot commutes. The vest means, “You can keep your body warm, but you don’t sweat too much.” He also said, “You can take it off and put it in your bag.”
Part of its dominance in recent years is due to office attire becoming increasingly casual in the wake of the pandemic. With the advent of work from home, vests became a fashionable answer to the requirement to be stylish on Zoom calls, at least keeping your belly button up, but at the same time being a little more comfortable to show that you are actually not in the area of 10 meters is a photocopier. Even in the office, the vest’s less formal aesthetic is a nod to a growing softening of what is considered acceptable office attire.
In industries like banking, Sidhu says, people tend to prefer a consistent style. For men, he added: “I think it really gives them a sense of belonging.” He compares it to places like football pitches and pubs, “where we see those specific clothing items.”
Whether or not industryIt remains to be seen whether the brand and its place in the social media spotlight will boost sales of vests outside of the Square Mile. Could the sleeveless garment even find favor in the fashion industry? “Never say never,” Sidhu said.
“In the last decade or so we’ve seen so many trends come and go that we never thought would be, quote unquote, fashionable.” He points to Crocs – there are many examples of “ugly” clothing , which somehow made it into the zeitgeist.
If some fruitier options became available perhaps things could be different. “I don’t think I’ve ever seen a banker brother wearing a patterned one, [or] one in a nice juicy color,” he said.
With the so-called “Corpcore” trend giving us a new take on the usual 9-to-5 attire, vests may be the next piece of clothing to get a Gen Z twist. “In the right hands, the banker bro vest could may be subverted to quite stylish effect.”